Although we initially had a smooth passage through the Drake, the journey from Port Stanley to Uruguay was tumultuous and could be considered our very own “Drake Shake,” much to the satisfaction of the passengers who had been hoping for a more dramatic experience.
Despite the bumpy sea days, we found relaxation in reconnecting with our bus travel mates from the Iguazu Falls tour, enjoying entertaining culinary demonstrations by the talented restaurant staff, and celebrating at the Captain’s Circle reception, where we won a bottle of champagne that we shared with new friends we’ve met along the way.
We also participated in an event called Chef’s Table, where we toured the galley and were treated to seven beautifully arranged meals, some almost too pretty to eat.
Captain Todd McBain stands out as the most interactive captain we’ve ever sailed with. Although all the ships we’ve been on have had good captains, Capt. McBain went above and beyond by providing detailed updates throughout the journey. He navigated the ship to places no large ship had ever ventured before during our scenic cruising in Antarctica. Additionally, he made himself available to all passengers, always ready to answer questions and pose for informal photos. As he moves on to the Emerald Princess after this tour, we hope our paths cross again one day, as his exceptional leadership and approachable nature left a lasting impression on us.
Port Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands, is a charming and picturesque town known for its British-style architecture, beautiful waterfront, and rich history.
Port Stanley is also home to a diverse mix of nationalities . According to the 2021 Census, there are people from 86 different nationalities living in the Falkland Islands As of 2024, Port Stanley’s population is estimated to be around 3,121. The largest groups after Falkland Islanders and British are from St. Helena, the Philippines, Chile and Zimbabwe; 51 Filipinos live at the Falkland Islands! It’s definitely quite a melting pot!
Our day began with a thrilling and bumpy tender ride to the port, followed by a brief bus journey. We then transferred to a 4WD vehicle and ventured off-road through a stunning landscape to Newmans Island, home to approximately 200 breeding pairs of gentoo penguins. After disembarking from the vehicle, we were free to explore, where we discovered penguins huddled together in a circle, which turned out to be young chick.
Observing the parent penguins emerge from the ocean, waddle up the hillside, and bring food to their eagerly waiting chicks was truly a remarkable sight.
Our final day of scenic cruising is upon us. The past four days have been filled with breathtaking scenery, extraordinary wildlife, and unforgettable memories. We feel incredibly fortunate to have witnessed such beauty. Much credit goes to Captain Mc Bain, who has navigated this large vessel where no large ship has sailed before.
We had a stellar team of naturalist, historian and geologist on board guiding us through the journey and provided such rich, informative insights and made the experience even more immersive. Their knowledge surely brought the landscapes and wildlife to life in a way that simply observing them couldn’t.
The team provided fascinating information about the base stations for Poland, Peru, Brazil, and the UK as we passed them. One of the highlights was learning about the history of Princess Cruises with the UK team that monitors Lockroy Base. Apparently, years ago, the Lockroy team made contact with a Princess Cruise ship as they were sailing by and asked for some pizzas! The ship crew in turn sent boats out to pick up some of the base crew, brought them on the ship, and let them enjoy nice hot showers and meals before taking them back to their base with pizzas for the rest of the team. This tradition has continued, and now when the base team comes on board, after their shower and meal, they spend time talking with the passengers about what they are working on at the base station.
At Endurance Island, which is actually Elephant Island, there is a memorial site known as Point Wild a bust of Captain Luis Alberto Pardo, along with a monolith and plaques celebrating the rescue of the survivors of the British ship Endurance by the Chilean Navy cutter Yelcho displaying the following words: “ Here on August 30 th, 1916, the Chilean Navy cutter Yelcho commanded by Pilot Luis Pardo Villalón rescued the 22 men from the Shackleton Expedition who survived the wreck of the ‘Endurance’ living for four and one half months in this Island”
It’s a poignant reminder of the incredible survival story and the bravery of those involved in the rescue
On our last day of this remarkable Antarctic voyage, we are enveloped by the pristine beauty of untouched landscapes and the awe-inspiring presence of extraordinary wildlife, creating memories that will linger long after we return home. Now I just need to survive the Drake Passage once again. The captain reports that it’s supposed to be a good passage at least three-quarters of the way. I’m counting on Ellen’s prayers that the remaining quarter of rough seas will occur during sleeping hours.
Not a single photo I’ve taken in the last few days truly captures the breathtaking beauty of this place. The wildlife, with each species displaying its unique charm, and the icebergs, each with its own distinct shape, have been simply amazing.
The large tabular icebergs resemble giant, icy plateaus adrift in the frigid waters, with their immense, flat tops and steep sides.
In contrast, the smaller icebergs are known for their unique shapes and stunning blue glacier colors. These smaller icebergs, often called “bergy bits” and “growlers,” are sculpted by the elements into intricate forms, with jagged edges, arches, and even whimsical shapes that can resemble animals or fantastical structures. The deep, crystalline blue hues of these smaller icebergs are a result of the dense, compact ice that absorbs and scatters light in such a way that it appears almost luminous.
Together, these large tabular icebergs and the smaller, uniquely shaped ones create a mesmerizing and ever-changing seascape that showcases the beauty and power of nature in Antarctica.
Every moment of this journey is a reminder of the incredible beauty and fragility of our planet.
Stepping into Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, felt like arriving at the end of the Earth. Nestled between the snow-capped Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel, this remote outpost in Tierra del Fuego, is a place of wild, untamed beauty.
Embarking on a boat tour of the Beagle Channel was an unforgettable experience. The waters teemed with wildlife, including sea lions basking on rocky outcrops and a variety of seabirds soaring overhead. The sight of Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, often called the “Lighthouse at the End of the World,” added to the sense of adventure and remoteness.
Arriving in Punta Arenas felt like stepping into the gateway of the wild, rugged beauty of Patagonia. The city, perched on the edge of the Strait of Magellan, greeted me with its crisp, invigorating air and a panoramic view of vast landscapes stretching towards the horizon. As I strolled through the colorful streets, the blend of historical architecture and modern life created a unique charm that captivated me instantly.
Punta Arenas is more than just a city; it’s a gateway to adventure, a place where history and natural beauty converge to create an unforgettable experience
After nine exhilarating days of non-stop travel and exploration, being on the ship feels like a blissful sanctuary of relaxation. With a simple agenda of sleep, eat, relax, and repeat. There’s nothing quite like the freedom to let go, recharge, and enjoy the serene moments at sea after such an intense adventure. We’ll savor all the wonderful meals, including a delightful balcony dinner ahead of us, and indulge in fresh crab at the crab shack. Best of all, there’s no need to pack and unpack every morning, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the tranquility of this voyage.
However, as we approach Drake Passage, the excitement builds, knowing that the waves will be quite big, making for a less relaxed but thrilling experience. The adventure continues, even through the rough seas.
Our first night in Buenos Aires was spent at an enchanting tango dinner show. The sultry rhythms, passionate dancing, and delectable cuisine created an unforgettable introduction to the city’s vibrant culture. It was the perfect way to kick off our short stay at this captivating metropolis.
Exploring the neighborhoods, or “barrios,” each with its own unique character, was an absolute delight. In the historic district of San Telmo, the cobblestone streets and colonial buildings transported me back in time. The lively side streets filled with tango dancers and antique vendors, was a feast for the senses.
One of the highlights was marveling at the iconic Obelisk that towers over the city. The Teatro Colón, one of the world’s great opera houses, stood as a testament to Buenos Aires’ deep appreciation for the arts.
Buenos Aires felt like stepping into a city where European elegance meets Latin American passion. The energy of the “Paris of South America” is palpable, with its wide boulevards, grand architecture, and vibrant street life.
Eva Perón’s last speech was delivered from the iconic balcony of the Casa Rosada, the presidential palace in Buenos Aires. This balcony holds immense historical significance, as it was from here that Evita addressed the Argentine people for the final time on May 1, 1952. Despite her ailing health, she delivered a powerful and emotional speech, reaffirming her commitment to the labor movement and the working class. The balcony itself, overlooking the Plaza de Mayo, has become a symbol of her enduring legacy and the deep connection she shared with the people of Argentina. Interestingly, it is the only place in the palace where the windows are always kept closed, serving as a poignant reminder of her passionate advocacy and the indelible impact she had on the nation’s history.
La Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires is a place of immense historical significance and beauty. Among its many notable tombs is that of Eva Perón, affectionately known as “Evita.” Despite her death in 1952, her body was not interred in the Duarte family mausoleum at Recoleta until 1974. This delay was due to a macabre 16-year odyssey during which her body was kidnapped by military officers following a coup. Eva Perón’s final resting place is a grand mausoleum that attracts countless visitors. Interestingly, her husband, Juan Perón, is not buried alongside her. His third wife, Isabel Perón, who is still alive and living in Spain, has expressed her desire to keep them apart.
The Floralis Genérica, a stunning metal flower sculpture located in Buenos Aires was designed by Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano, this impressive sculpture stands at 23 meters (75 feet) tall when the petals are open. It’s made of stainless steel and aluminum and has a unique feature of opening and closing its petals daily, mimicking the natural behavior of a flower. The Floralis Genérica symbolizes hope and rebirth, making it a notable landmark in the city.
Caminito, in the vibrant neighborhood of La Boca, is a lively and colorful street that bursts with character and history. The area is famous for its vividly painted houses, which create a kaleidoscope of bright colors, ranging from sunny yellows and deep blues to rich reds and vibrant greens. This artistic tradition began when local residents used leftover paint from the nearby shipyards to decorate their homes. Over time, Caminito has transformed into an open-air museum and a hub for artists, musicians, and dancers. As you stroll through the cobblestone streets, you’re treated to the sights and sounds of tango performances, street art, and bustling markets, all set against the backdrop of these beautifully painted houses. If I ever find myself in Buenos Aires again, I’ll devote an entire day to exploring this vibrant and captivating area.
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