2024 April 28-May 1: Cinque Terre

I have always been fascinated by train journeys, I envisioned them as relaxing and romantic. However, this notion would probably be true if you are not lugging luggage around and not trying to get on  a train heading to any one of the five villages in Cinque Terre. 

Stepping onto the train platform  in La Spezia, we encountered hundreds of people milling around, waiting for the (delayed) train; it was a mob scene. Cruise passengers — with their cruise-line-logo stickers and their whisper-system earbuds — stuck close to their guides, in big packs along the platform. Individual travelers did their best to weave through the crowds, filling in little gaps.

And then the train came  and everybody wanted on. If only I could have taken a photo but it was too much even for me. People pushed and pulled their travel partners into the tiny alcoves by the doors. Our group of four slipped in. I saw a tour guide at the door of the train, shouting to his group with exaggerated calm: “Don’t worry. Don’t worry. Just puuush your way in. Puuush in. I will be the last one.” Finally the last person pushed their way onto the train, we all clapped when the  doors shimmied shut, and we were on our way to Monterosso — where, about twelve minutes later, the entire contents of the train disgorged onto the platform at once, creating yet another log jam. The whole experience felt less like a vacation, and more like some bizarre, self-imposed refugee crisis which brought back memories of people clinging on to helicopters as they were being evacuated from war zones. 

I have to admit that I have been dreaming of Cinque Terre for years, and not many other people seemed to be dreaming of the same place. A number of us were there, gazing up and doing our best to take in the picturesque villages, all the while being jostled by the throngs of people who were looking forward to finding a place to eat lunch and buy souvenirs.

After a couple hours of looking for the must see sights in Monterosso, we decided we would stop for lunch only to realize it was now approaching 2pm and everything was closing till dinner. Lucky for us, we found a place that remained open through the “siesta” time.

Monterosso to Vernazza Hike

We enjoyed a nice relaxed lunch then we decided to continue our day by walking to the next village. After four hours of hiking with frogs and fireflies swarming around us we finally neared the end of the hike. It was completely dark, so we had to use our phone flashlights to navigate our way down. Of course no one could quite recall who came up with this brilliant idea to walk to the next village!

Later on, we would learn that this is one of the hardest parts of the climb from Monterosso to Vernazza. The route takes you up steep steps and along a gravel road with elevated views of the shore.

What a day to remember it turned out to be. I am so proud of us for completing the journey.

Will I return in the future? In fact, I really wish to go back someday so I can have the opportunity to see the towns in peace and quiet from a boat on the sea, where there are no stores and continue the beautiful hike we started.

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