The day we arrived in Lifou looked like a complete washout. It was pouring — the kind of rain that makes you question every life choice that led you to booking an island drive tour. I was absolutely dreading it, but off we went anyway, shuffling toward the tender line like determined little penguins.

People were returning from their tours drenched, dripping, and defeated. Not exactly inspiring. But we carried on, wrapped in my well‑traveled, utterly glamorous $2 poncho, whose only mission was to keep my camera and backpack dry. It did so with heroic dedication.

And then — Lifou changed its mind.

By the time we reached our destination, the rain had stopped. The clouds thinned. The sky turned the kind of blue that feels like a reward. The sun came out as if it had been waiting for us specifically.

And there it was: the most pristine beach I’ve seen in my entire life.

Jay didn’t hesitate for a second — he was in the water before I could even take my shoes off. I, on the other hand, felt pulled in a different direction. I set off on a long, slow two‑mile walk along the water’s edge, meeting locals along the way and telling each one how impossibly beautiful their island was. They smiled warmly, though I’m not entirely sure they understood a word I said. One man even posed for a photo with me, the whole exchange carried out in cheerful, improvised sign language.

What began as a day I was bracing myself for turned into one of the most perfect surprises of the voyage — a reminder that sometimes the best moments arrive right after you’ve resigned yourself to the worst.

Now we have two sea days ahead, and a surprising number of chores lined up. Our passports — taken from us before we were allowed off the ship in earlier ports — were finally returned today so we can complete our New Zealand entry declaration. We also have to re‑do our safety training and report to our muster station since we’ll be on board for more than 30 days, a first for us and a milestone that feels both amusing and impressive.r

And as we sail on, I’m struck by how this journey has carried us through so many islands and cultures, each one adding its own rhythm to the trip.

Next stop: Auckland, New Zealand — where we plan to seek out what’s said to be the best ice cream in town, Giapo.