After completing the long stretch of sea days — five in a row, the most I’ve ever done — I can honestly say the ocean gave us the full range of its moods. Day three was the toughest, the kind that makes you wonder if the horizon will ever change. At one point the pool had to be netted, and the hours stretched longer than they should have. We even crossed the equator on the third day, a small milestone marked with a certificate and a quiet sense of accomplishment. It was the longest it possibly could have felt, but it was also the only way to reach our first stop in French Polynesia.

Feb 5: Landfall in Raiatea

When Raiatea finally appeared on the horizon, it felt like a reward. The deep Pacific blue softened into clear turquoise, and the island rose in layers of lush green, misted and ancient. After five days of nothing but sea and sky, the sight of land — this land — felt almost unreal.

Once ashore, we spent a gentle four hours circling the island, taking in Raiatea’s quiet, unspoiled beauty. The landscape felt ancient and alive — steep green ridges, soft mist clinging to the mountains, and water so clear it looked lit from within. We stopped at the caldera overlook, where the island’s volcanic heart opens into sweeping valleys layered in every shade of green. Later, a simple fruit tasting became the highlight of the morning: sweet mangoes, cold watermelon, fresh coconut, and coconut juice straight from the shell. After five long days at sea, those bright, clean flavors tasted like pure renewal.

Feb 6: Moorea — Peaks, Bays, and a Dreamlike Arrival

To reach Moorea, we first boarded a tender, gliding across the lagoon toward the island. The ride itself felt like part of the adventure — the water shifting from deep blue to bright turquoise as we moved closer to shore. Partway across, a pod of dolphins appeared beside us; it was one of those unexpected moments that makes travel feel magical.

Once ashore, we set out on an island drive with our tour guide, Rico, who immediately won us over with his warmth and endless knowledge. He told us everything from local legends to practical details — including how often the tour buses are inspected. At first, we thought this was just an interesting bit of trivia… until we began climbing the mountain and encountered hairpin turn after hairpin turn. Suddenly, that inspection schedule felt very reassuring.

As we circled the island, Moorea revealed itself in layers: jagged emerald peaks wrapped in soft clouds, quiet villages tucked into the greenery, and roadside fruit stands bursting with color. The air carried the scent of vanilla and tiare blossoms, and the mountains shifted in greens and golds as the light moved across the ridges.

Moorea invited you to slow down, breathe deeper, and simply take in the beauty around you. It was a perfect continuation of our journey through French Polynesia, each island revealing a different face of this remarkable part of the world.

Feb 7: Papeete — Color, Rhythm, and Island Life in Motion

After the quiet beauty of Moorea, arriving in Papeete felt like stepping into the heartbeat of French Polynesia. The harbor was alive with movement — ferries crossing the channel, locals heading to work, vendors setting up their stalls, and the city stretching along the waterfront in a mix of color, sound, and warm island energy. It was a lively contrast to the stillness of the smaller islands, and it immediately pulled us into its rhythm.

Our tour guide for the day was Teva — “just like the shoe,” as he liked to joke. He had the same easy charm and humor we enjoyed in Moorea, and he kept our group together with his signature method: whenever it was time to return to the bus, he lifted a conch shell and blew a deep, echoing call across the street. Even in the middle of the city, that ancient sound cut through the bustle and made everyone smile.

Walking through Papeete, we saw a blend of French influence and Polynesian tradition: open‑air markets filled with vanilla, pearls, and bright pareos; bakeries offering warm croissants next to stands selling fresh coconut; and murals splashed across buildings in bold tropical colors. The waterfront promenade was lined with flowers, food trucks, and people going about their day, all framed by the deep blue of the harbor and the dramatic silhouette of Moorea rising in the distance.

Papeete wasn’t about dramatic peaks or quiet lagoons — it was about people, movement, and the feeling of being in a place that hums with its own energy. After days of serene landscapes, it was refreshing to experience the lively, colorful side of French Polynesia before continuing our journey onward.